Tuesday, October 18, 2011

How to develop a Poker Table

These are comprehensive instructions for building the poker table. The table will gauge 48" x 96" and have absolutely a 4" wide rail. This will provide satisfactory seating for 10 game enthusiasts.

These instructions use pine boards to the legs and frame, because these include painted. If you opt to stain you table, you really should substitute for a various species of wood. Additionally you can want to purchase collapsible banquet table legs to utilise as the legs for your Poker Table.

Materials Needed:

3 - 4'x8' Piece of ¾ " MDF

10 - 8' 1x4 Choose Pine Boards

1 - 6' 1x10 Decide on Pine Board

4 - African American Strap Hinges

4 - Platform Leg Braces

Quality Wood made Glue

1 can - 3M Hi-Strength 90 Spray Adhesive (green can)

1 qt. involving Paint (black)

1 qt. about Polyurethane

8 - 2" Products with Tee Nuts

1 - Box of 1 ¼ " Black Drywall Anchoring screws

16 - 4" Dark colored Drywall Screws

Wood Filler

¼" Closed Cell Space-age foam 96"x48"

22' 1' Dense Rail Foam - 3# Stiffness

Vinyl 55" x 108"

Bench Cloth 55" x 108"

Different - 2 Foldable Banquet Dinner table Legs (Remove 7 - 8' 1x4 Decide on Pine Boards)

Tools Vital:

Jig Saw

Miter Watched with Finish Blade

Belt Sander using 120 grit sand papers

Orbital Sander with 180 grit sand paper

Router

¼ " Roundover with bearing" Router Bit

Exercise

Drill Bits (3/4" Spade, 1/8" hardwood, ¼ " wood, 5/16" wood)

Countersink

Clamps

Electric Knife

Hammer

Staple Firearm

Staples

Paint Brush or simply Sprayer

Step 1 - System Table Top and Track Pieces

Draw your Table/Rail creations onto the 3 fecal materials MDF. The table top might be 1 piece and the rail will are made up of 3 pieces (top, centre and bottom).

The Primary Sheet of 48" times 96" MDF

The first sheet will produce the end piece of the rail and also table top.

Locate the location 24" in from the tip and 24" in from side; mark it. Do precisely the same at the other terminate? These are the spots that can produce the radiuses to your semi circles.

The first Semi circles could be for the outside edge of your bottom rail piece. Measure out 24" from the marked spots (this will be to the edge of MDF). Draw a semi circle in side of the sheet of MDF in the other creating the partial circle. Repeat on other end.

The second semi circle will likely be for the inside edge on the bottom rail piece. Measure 22 ½ " from marked spot. Draw a good semi circle on equally ends. Now draw a in a straight line along both sides for connecting the two semi bags.

The Third semi circle to is going to be for the table best piece. Measure 22 ¼ " within the marked spot. Draw a new semi circle at both ends. Now draw a without delay line along both sides to attach the two semi groups.

Second and Third Mattress sheets of 48" x 96" MDF

These sheets will produce the middle and top pieces within the rail.

Again, locate the location 24" in from the tip and 24" in out of your side; mark it. Do the exact same at the other ending.

Measure out 24" from your marked spot and draw a semi circle. Replicate on other side. This created the surface edges of the track.

Measure out 20" with the marked spot and obtain a semi circle. Duplicate on other side. This has created the inside edges of this rail.

This will generate a 4" wide rail.

2 - Cutting out this Table Top and Track Pieces

Use a jig spotted to cut the 4 pieces from the MDF sheets. Do you’re very best to maintain a nice even cut following the lines. First, cut off of the corners. Next drill a pilot hole to the jig saw blade. Have a very ¼ " drill little bit of. Drill the hole near to the line, not involved with it (also not into a table or rail piece). If your holes are drilled, and next cut out the continuing to be pieces.

Step 3 - Construct Rail Pieces

The next step is to assemble the entire rail. These pieces would be glued and screw alongside one another. Dry fit the 3 pieces together to see which way they fit the perfect.

-Assemble Top and Middle section Piece-

First, apply wood glue one side of the very best piece. Next, lay the middle piece upon the top piece. Make sure they are lined up together. Clamp these individuals together. Use a 1/8" exercise bit and drill start holes every 8" - 12" throughout the rail. Use a countersink over the hole, so the screw might be recessed into the lumber. Screw 1 ¼ " sheetrock screws into the holes. Remove clamps.

-Assemble Bottom level piece to Top/Middle Pieces-

Apply glue on a single side of the floor piece. Lay the bottom piece onto the additional pieces. Make sure pieces are aligned together. Clamp pieces at the same time. Use a 1/8" look bit and drill initial holes every 8" - 12" about the rail. Use a countersink relating to the hole, so the screw shall be recessed into the solid wood. Screw 1 ¼ " sheetrock screws in to the holes. Remove clamps. Fill all of the screw holes with raw wood filler. Allow the wood filler to dry.

Step four - Sanding Rail and additionally Table Top

-Table Top rated -

Sand the side with the Table Top to get rid of any roughness or unevenness from sawing utilizing a belt sander.

-Rail -

All the edges of the rail must be rounded. This can performed with a belt sander, but preferably to get done with a router. With a ¼ " Roundover with bearing" router bit gets results great. Each of the 5 edges needs to be rounded.

Use the belt sander to sand the side of the rail. Attempt to make it as smooth as you can. Use the orbital sander to lightly sand the very best and the newly spherical edges. Make sure the fact that wood filler is sanded steady.

Step 5 - Seal Table Top and Railroad

Apply a thin coat of polyurethane towards top side and edge from the table top, and to all sides of the rail. Put these pieces separate and let them free of moisture. This does two issues; protects the wood from spilled drinks and the most importantly helps the squirt adhesive adhere better.

Measure 6 - Table Framework

-Cut Frame Pieces -

2 - 31 7/8" 1x4 discussion boards - End Pieces

2 - 64" 1x4 decks - Side Pieces

1 - 30 3/8" 1x4 board - Middle Support

2 - 30 3/8" 1x10 forums - Leg Mounts

You'll cut a total of 7 pieces for that frame. Use 3 in the 8' 1x4 and 1 6' 1x10 boards for any frame. Use one belonging to the 1x4 boards; cut 2 - 31 7/8" amount of time pieces and 1 - 30 3/8" length of time piece. Next, cut 2 - 64" length pieces, one out of all the 2 remaining 1x4 decks. Finally, cut 2 - 30 3/8" length pieces straight from the 1x10 board.

-Assemble Structure Pieces-

At both ends with the end pieces, countersink a couple pilot holes. The side pieces will butt around the end pieces. Apply wood glue to ends of the facet pieces. Fit the ending and side pieces at the same time. Use 8 - 1 ½ " sheetrock anchoring screws to fasten them alongside one another. This will make a new rectangular shaped frame.

From the halfway point (32 ¾ ") for the now 65 ½ " aspect, drill 4 countersink start holes, 2 holes on each of the sides. Apply glue into the ends of the 30 3/8 1x4 mid support piece. Insert it in the frame and fasten it available with 4- 1 ½ " anchoring screws.

The 2 - 30 3/8" 1x10 leg mount boards get in next. These boards will sit flush aided by the top edge of the particular frame. Drill 10 countersink pilot holes per each leg mount board; 3 holes on every one side and 4 to the end. Apply glue on three edges for the leg mount board. Insert it throughout the frame and fasten it in place. Fill all screw cracks with Wood Filler.

Factor 7 - Fasten Style to Table Top

Have the table top laying flat aided by the bottom side up. Lay the frame upon the table top. Make sure that the frame is concentrated in both directions at the top. Use a pencil in order to outline the frame against the table top. Outline both inside and beyond the borders of frame, including the center support and leg wall mounts.

Remove frame from top. Use a 1/8" drill bit and drill holes every 4"-6" up around were the frame will be. Drill some holes for ones leg mounts too. Flip the top end over and countersink every one of those holes.

Flip the superior back over. Apply wood glue for the top were the frame will fasten to it. Place Frame back on the top. Start fastening screws as a result of underneath. Make sure the corners are fastened numerous experts flip it over and finish almost all screws from the finest. It is a little easier which. Wipe off any excess glue.

Step 8 - Stand Legs

-Rough Cut Lower leg Pieces -

16 - 27" 1x4 (These could be cut to 26" later)

8 - 24" 1x4 (These will probably be cut to 23 ¾ " later)

Cut 15 - 27" 1x4 pieces using 5 - 8' 1x4 boards. Cut the 16th 27" piece out from one of several left over 32" pieces from your frame. These 16 boards can make the 4 legs.

Cut 8 - 24" pieces straight from the remaining 2 - 8' 1x4 discussion boards. These 8 boards will help make the 2 cross supports with the legs.

-Glue Leg Portions -

Divide the 16 - 27" a lower limb boards into 4 multiple 4. Glue the 4 decks together and clamp them all together. Repeat this for ones other 3 legs. Enable the glue to set previous to removing clamps.

Divide the 8 - 24" aid boards into 2 categories of 4. Glue the 4 panels and clamp them mutually. Repeat this for the opposite support. Allow the glue to before removing clamps.

-Sanding Lower-leg Pieces -

Use any belt sander and stone dust the leg and sustain pieces smooth. Only sand the joint side these pieces. Next, use the router with the ¼ “Roundover together with bearing" bit and near the corners of the thighs and legs and support pieces. Use an orbital sander to sand the pieces towards a nice smooth finish.

-Finish Trim Leg Pieces -

Finish cut each leg to be able to 26 ½ ". Cut off a part of each end of each leg making sure that both ends of the leg enjoy a finished cut. Light sand together with the orbital sander.

Finish slash each Support to 23 ¾ ". Cut off a portion of each end of each support to make certain both ends of the support enjoy a finished cut. Light sand together with the orbital sander.

-Assemble Hind legs -

The 4 legs will certainly measure 3" x 3 ½ " wide. Lay the 4 legs next to each other with the 3 ½ " half face up. Measure up on the bottom of each thigh 5" and 8 ½ ". Tag these measurements across every leg. This is the location were the cross supports will fasten to your legs.

Drill four 3/16" holes completely the each leg. Use a countersink piece or 3/8" drill bit and produce a ½ " to ¾ " great countersink hole for every one of the 16 screw holes. Apply wood glue towards both ends of all the support pieces. Insert the screws on the holes and fasten the leg on the support. Do this per each leg.

Wipe off any sort of excess glue. Fill the particular screw holes with fire wood filler. Once the glue along with wood filler is dry out, sand those areas smooth together with the orbital sander.

Step 9 - Art work

You will be artwork the legs, frame and additionally bottom of table. Apply the paint no matter which way is easiest for your needs; spray paint, brush and sprayer. First apply some coat of primer. You've got to do 2 coats. Let drying time between applications.

Step 10 - Adding Legs to Table

Lay the table top flat along with the bottom face up. Place the legs inside their positions. Have the legs tight on the frame on a ends; leave an equal space between the legs and the team frames. Install the handles and table leg braces. Flip the table through and stand it up when using the legs down.

Step 11 - Setting T-Bolt Nuts into Rail

Position the rail into place revealed. From underneath the table be sure there is an even gap between table and rail. This gap it will take for the felt in addition to vinyl. Once the rail lies correctly, clamp it in position.

You will be drilling 8 holes evenly spaced about the rail, these holes ought to be 1 1/8" in out of your inside edge of the actual rail. Using a ¾ " spade tool bit, drill 8 holes for a depth of ½ " - ¾ ". Utilizing a 5/16" wood drill little bit of, drill through the remaining depth for the rail and through the table.

Remove the rail through the table. Gently pound each T-bolt nuts into typically the holes. Put a ¾ " item of board under the lip on the rail to provide support, so the rail isn't damaged. Secure rail back revealed, by screwing in spot with all 8 bolts. Fill in the ¾ " cry with wood filler. Sand when dry.

Step 12 - Polyurethane foam

Both the table and the rail must have the foam applied to your prospects.

-Table -

Spray the top of the table with adhesive. Set the ¼ " shut down cell foam onto the entire table. Press the foam down in the centre and work it out to edge. Make sure you decide any air bubbles.

Locate the holes with the rail bolts and cut them open.

-Rail -

Glue to rail foam to the top of rail. Make sure you possess enough foam hanging across the sides to cover the sides within the rail.

Start at a midway point on among the list of straight sides. Work in 2 foot section during a period. Spray glue onto the surface of the rail. Place foam onto your location which you just sprayed glue. Once it has followed the rail work at the next 2 foot segment. Continue this all the way in which around. When you get the many way around, overlap the foam and make use of a utility knife to minimize the joint. Then glue the final section down, making sure the ends a tight to one another.

Next Glue the sides down and even wrap around to the particular of the rail. Then trim off the different excess using a power company knife.

Step 13 - Stand Felt

Lay the Felt out up for grabs with an even amount over hanging over the sides. Use a staple gun to fasten the felt to the poker table. You will be stapling the felt towards the edge of the bench.

Start at the middle of one of the long sides. Put with 1 staple. Go to be able to other side and drag the felt tight. Fit one staple in. Go to among the many round ends. Pull that felt tight and insert 1 staple in. Head to other end and take it tight and decide to put 1 staple in. Go halfway between two for the staple and pull it tight and placed in 1 staple. Then look at other side and perform. Continue doing this till the whole piece of was feeling is tight and it is in place. Staples should be 3" - 4" besides.

Use a utility knife and unavailable all the excess sensed. Cut it off in spite of the bottom surface for the table. Use a hammer to gently pound in different staples that are not really completely in.

Locate the holes for that rail bolts and slice them open.

Step 14 - Train Vinyl

This can be a tricky system of the job, especially if you are using vinyl that does not stretch very well. The vinyl we have for sale at this site stretches very nicely causing the part a little simpler.

Lay the Vinyl flat together with the black side face lower. Lay the rail in the vinyl, top aspect down. Make sure the rail is centered on the vinyl. The vinyl will entirely cover every surface for the rail. The seam are going to be located at the inside corner to the bottom side of that rail.

Start at the centre of a round end. Pull the vinyl up and onto the inside edge and even put 1 staple set. Go to the many other ends and do exactly the same thing. Take the utility cutting knife and cut down center of the vinyl inside in the rail. Make the cut about 5' in length parallel to the straight sides for the rail. (The reason for this is you will be pulling the vinyl on the sides which will likely then help it go to the round ends.)

Gently pull the vinyl at the centre of one of the aspects, so the cut which you put down the center starts to pull open about 3". Then put a staple into your inside edge. Repeat relating to other side. The middle cut needs to be about 6" wide on the center.

You will do the lateral side edge of the upright sides first. Work your way down from the first staple to the spot that the rail begins to game. Gently pulling the soft top up and over and staple into the inside edge. Then work your method the other direction through the center and then to your other side.

Once the vinyl is wrapped across the outside and stapled into position, take the utility silverware and run it down inside edge for the rail and remove all of the excess vinyl. Use a hammer to gently pound in any staples that are definitely not completely in.

It is now time for it to wrap it inside the straight sides. Makes use of the utility knife and cut within the ends of the pre-existing cut, straight towards each half and 3 cuts at the rounded end of all the rail; making 4 triangle designed pieces. Cut until you will be about 4" from railroad. Now take the side chapters of vinyl and pull these individuals tight and staple it in position. Start in middle and be able to work in each track. Run Utility knife downward inside edge and take away excess vinyl.

Next, wrap the inside of the round ends. Cut the triangle shaped pieces by 50 percent, making 8 triangle designed pieces. Start on one side and take the earliest pieces and pull this tight and staple it set. Continue around the end from the rail stapling each piece into place. Repeat relating to other side and fit off excess vinyl.

The outside of the round ends is the most difficult area of the vinyl. You need to tightly stretch the vinyl up and during the rail and staple the software. The end of the rail vinyl is already stapled. Start halfway between end and the team. Then just keep going halfway between the stapled points, until it can be all stapled in spot. The trick here is to not have any creases with the vinyl. Once you have both ends stapled in position, then cut off any sort of excess vinyl. Located the holes to the rail bolts and cut them open.

Step 15 - Fasten Rail constantly in place

Put the rail in place revealed. Place a washer in each bolt. Tighten every single bolt through the bottom on the table into the train.

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